Vertus

What it is

Vertus is a Premier Cru village at the southern edge of the Côte des Blancs. 487 hectares of vineyard, one of the larger villages within the subregion. No Grand Cru status: 95 percent on the old Échelle des Crus.

What makes it unique

Unlike the six Côte des Blancs Grand Cru villages (almost monoculture Chardonnay), Vertus carries a substantial share of Pinot Noir: around 20 percent of plantings. That’s unusual in this region. The rest is Chardonnay.

This deviating profile explains why Vertus does not hold Grand Cru status but is highly respected: it’s a genre of its own, not the “perfect” Côte des Blancs expression but a distinctive style with body, ageing potential and a more complex palate.

Soil and aspect

South-facing slopes, chalk soils mixed with clay in the higher parcels. South of Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, so a slightly warmer microclimate. Pinot Noir ripens better here than in more northerly CdB villages. Chardonnay picks up a bit more body and yellow stone fruit than the most vertical Le Mesnil style.

Leading producers

Vertus has a remarkable concentration of first-rate grower-producers:

• Larmandier-Bernier: biodynamic pioneer, single-vineyard cuvées (Latitude, Longitude, Vieille Vigne du Levant). One of the most respected grower houses worldwide.
• Veuve Fourny & Fils: historic family operation, Vertus’s largest grower
• Doyard: six generations, notable Premier Cru Blanc de Blancs
• Pascal Doquet: organic grower, single-vineyard expressions
• Pierre Gimonnet & Fils: makes Cuis 1er Cru/Cramant Grand Cru/Vertus blends
• De Sousa: also holds Vertus parcels

Many large houses buy Vertus fruit for their prestige cuvées.

In the glass

A Vertus Blanc de Blancs from Larmandier-Bernier: deeper yellow stone fruit than a typical Le Mesnil, a light floral lift, balanced minerality. A rosé from Vertus (saignée or assemblage from its own grapes) is a genre of its own: not pale-fresh like Cramant, not vinous-heavy like Aÿ, somewhere between.

Premier Cru but top production

The fact that Vertus is formally only Premier Cru says more about the rigidity of the Échelle des Crus than about the actual quality. Many connoisseurs rate Larmandier-Bernier’s Vertus cuvées as the equal of Grand Cru bottlings from Avize or Cramant. The price often sits below Grand Cru levels, which makes Vertus one of the best-value categories within Champagne.

For the drinker

Vertus is the most reasonably priced entry into biodynamic Champagne via Larmandier-Bernier. Ask a specialist wine shop for a Vertus Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut: the entry tier of a major grower house, often around 50-80 euros.