Cantina Tramin Troy Riserva 2022: Alpine Burgundy

Of all eight wines at La Grande Bellezza, this was the glass I lingered over longest. Cantina Tramin Troy Riserva 2022 is a Chardonnay that leans toward Burgundy rather than the New World, and that is a compliment. A cracking wine, to put it plainly.

Cantina Tramin Troy Riserva 2022 in brief

Troy is the house flagship and the only wine to see barrique: forty percent new oak, eleven months of wood alongside twenty-two months of steel. The grapes come from two selected plots in Sella, between 500 and 550 metres, at a yield of 38 hectolitres per hectare. That is low, and you taste it in the concentration.

Tasting Note

Tasting Note

Appearance

Medium gold, with the sheen of a wine that has had time.

Nose

Exciting from the first swirl. Creamy, a hint of vanilla and butterscotch, energetic and spicy. The nose challenges rather than giving itself away.

Palate

A creamy structure cut through by tight saline acids that land a real punch. That punch is precisely what breaks the creaminess open and keeps the balance in tension. Full yet fresh, with the coolness of the altitude clearly present. The oak stays neatly in the background.

Finish

Medium plus, with the acids holding the fruit a moment longer.

Quality

The best white of the day. A Chardonnay with Burgundian ambition that never denies the coolness of Alto Adige. Oak that serves rather than dominates.

Two honest caveats. First, this is an oak-marked style, and anyone who drinks Alto Adige precisely for its unworked clarity may find that forty percent new oak too much. It is a deliberate choice, not an accident, but one that divides taste. Second: this is the Riserva, the top tier of the house, and at 7,200 bottles and 180 magnums a scarce good. You pay for that ambition, and whether the wine is worth it depends on how much you love the Burgundian side. For me: yes.

Drink or keep? Beautiful now, but with these acids and this oak it has years ahead. I would lay a bottle down and come back in five years.

Producer

Cantina Tramin

Wine

Troy Riserva 2022

Vintage

2022

Region

Alto Adige, Italy

Grape

Chardonnay (100%)

Ageing

11 months barrique (40% new) + 22 months steel

Yield

38 hl/ha

Altitude

500 to 550 metres, Sella

Sources

• Cantina Tramin (official): cantinatramin.it
• La Grande Bellezza (tasting): lagrandebellezza.com

Tasted at La Grande Bellezza 2026 in Amsterdam. No partnership, independent assessment.